Join the Moscow Circus

What comes to mind when you hear the word "circus"? For me, my only immediate reaction is Dumbo.  Specifically the scene where his mother cradles him through a cage. So. SAD. Next up would probably be Water for Elephants. Though more accurately in my mind it would be "that awful depressing circus movie with the elephant that breaks loose and isn't actually about a circus at all." I had to look up the title. (Note: I can't handle movies where people get hit. Or elephants. It's my undoing.)

It was clearly time to make some new word associations, so Friday night I headed to the Nikulin Circus on Tsvetnoy Bulvar. My first week in Moscow I actually stayed in a hostel that's in this neighborhood and couldn't believe my eyes when I saw a cheetah being walked down the street on a leash. Unaware of our proximity to the circus I first thought, "What city have I moved to?!" This was followed by, "Only in Moscow." That was only the first of many occurrences that fall under that second label. A list may be forthcoming.

Photography wasn't allowed, so unfortunately there's not much to show for this event. But here are some of the new word associations.

1. Vegas.  I don't know why, but somewhere in my mind I had envisioned that the circus art had not evolved since the 1920's. I fully expected old school, traditional circus-ing. Although I frankly have no idea what that would entail. So the flashing lights and live, very contemporary band/sound tracks caught me a bit off guard. I got up to date quickly enough though.

 2. Children. There were SO many! This is definitely a family friendly activity if you're looking for an evening out with the little ones. In my life, I interact with approximately 7 children for 1 hour on Sundays as I serve as our church children's music director. Otherwise, the closest I come to kids is via Skype with my nieces and nephews. What I loved: the laughter and energy they brought to the experience. There is nothing like a child's laugh of pure joy.  Didn't so much love: the child next to me who had gas attacks throughout the first half of the show. I've mostly adjusted to the scents of Moscow, but this one I was totally unprepared for.

 3. Animal Photo Shoots. These unsuspecting children were nicely arranged for a photo and sitting calmly until the blonde lady on the left brought out the birds to place on their shoulders and legs. I had to watch the scene unfold...I knew it held great potential. The littlest one seated on the right was smiling away until a bird was placed directly on his lap. He was looking the other way and didn't even see it coming, so his start and the immediate tears that ensued were priceless. Immediate removal of the bird brought the tears to a stop. Maybe I especially enjoyed this scene having grown up in a large family and  experienced the chaos that a family portrait can bring. Add animals to the mix?! You're asking for a new circus of sorts. (I was apparently the weird creepy lady taking pictures of other people's kids at the circus. The sheer number of them really just caught me by surprise!)

4. Elephants. Most of this circus is made up of human acts, with the occasional animal addition (apparently even Moscow has gotten up to speed on the appropriateness of this). There were some highly entertaining birds, a really random horse/dog show, and an elephant act to top things off. The elephants were brilliant and it was a long-ish act so it stuck with me. But I couldn't help but think, "Are they happy??" I actually don't even like animals so I caught even myself off guard with this one. But I couldn't help but think about my trip to Kenya and the sheer beauty of seeing elephants in their natural habitat. While these highly-trained elephants were impressive, they were missing the majesty that left me so awestruck on the Serengeti. 

I'm not a circus girl, I think I can safely say. But did I have an enjoyable evening? Yes. Overall it was a highly entertaining show, with lots of laughter and some impressive acts. The strength and flexibility of the people involved helped me jump back on the yoga train. Though I have no intention of EVER trapeze-ing it through the air. Let that be clear. I'd say this is a must-visit with children and a fun optional variant if you're looking for a relatively inexpensive way to pass a light-hearted evening.

Now for the real fun...your "circus" word associations. Go!

День Победы: May 9th

On Victory Day here in Russia I ran into a group of French tourists on the metro. I was thrilled to momentarily return to my first language love, and helped them locate the next metro stop they wanted to see...people actually tour the metro here. And with good reason! But we'll file that topic away for another day. My friends expressed their surprise at the extent of the Victory Day celebration they were witnessing, despite having their own fête de la victoire on May 8th. They were not alone.

Victory here is a BIG deal! It starts off with a serious display of machinery at the Victory Parade. You can take a quick peek (or watch the entire thing!) to get a feel. In case my earlier posting on tanks left you wanting more, this is it!
Impressive, right?! I didn't brave any crowds to try and witness this one in person, but rather enjoyed some clips from the comfort of my own home...a precious morning off does not need to be rushed! Besides, I needed to save energy for the day's itinerary.

First up, a stop at Сад Эрмитаж. It's a lovely little park where you find another one of Moscow's opera theaters, Novaya Opera.  But there was no opera on tap for this girl today, location aside. This park tried to create some 1940's flair in modern Moscow with an old car display, a concert of war songs and dance, some youth dressed in military WWII costume, and plenty of Russian military men on hand.  

My favorite moment while here was this sweet couple that started to dance to the older tunes. To think of all this veteran witnessed and all the changes this couple has seen over the decades is unfathomable. But to see them caught up in sweet remembrance was beautiful.

Almost as beautiful as Nastya's picture as a little boy turned out. I'm only sorry I didn't work harder to squeeze my head through the child-sized hole provided.

Next up, was a quick photoshoot in the courtyard of the Moscow Museum of Modern Art...a courtyard shared with the Moscow cafe that offers my absolute favorite tea: ginger, mint and lemon.

 Even on a day off escaping this beautiful Bolshoi tends to be an impossibility. Especially on Victory Day, given that one of the city's long-standing traditions takes place here. Directly in front of the theater, veterans gather to greet crowds. In yet another beautiful Russian flower tradition, veterans and others who lived through the war are presented with flowers from anyone and everyone. Of all the day's events, seeing this tradition was one of the most touching. I don't know who these people are on every other day, but seeing them recognized in such a way at least one day of the year is truly beautiful.

Poetry performances were given by people of all ages. (Note: I LOVE that Russians memorize poetry!!! I have yet to meet a Russian who can't recite at least one!) We witnessed an 8-year-old's admirable performance. Russian is all the more impressive when I hear children speak it.

Last stop in the city is by far the most popular on the 9th...Поклонная Гора (Poklonnaya Hill) and Парк Победы (Victory Park). The crowds were out here in full force, reveling in the holiday sunshine. Unfortunately they had completely depleted the ice cream and water resources at ALL the vendors' stations we passed!

We passed on the evening salute, and instead ended the day with a sister slumber party and watched the Soviet wartime film, Отец Солдата. The story is that of an older Georgian father who's journey begins when he sets off to visit his injured son in a hospital. He eventually finds himself at the battlefront and, when he does finally find his son, the scene which unfolds is unforgettable. Rather than give away the entire plot, I'd encourage you to find this film and turn on some subtitles. While the version below likely won't do much for you, this movie for me was truly unforgettable. 

Sunshine, my sister, some interesting insight into Russia's experience and remembrance of WWII, and lots of victory made for a pretty fantastic holiday! 

A

Suzdal: Where time stands still

I've seen my fair share of museums, but it's rare that you walk down the streets of a city and feel as if you're in one. Suzdal, one of the Golden Ring cities, is a unique experience in that regard. There seems to be a beautiful church on every corner, the painted houses seem to have remained unchanged for generations, and the small gardens dotting the hillsides create a picture unlike anything I've seen.

This being the case, it shouldn't seem ridiculous that this was our hotel.

The Rizopolozhensky monastery, founded in 1207.

When I read that staying in a monastery was an option, it seemed to be the only one. Our planning for this trip was very minimal so it took some time to find this place, but it was worth it.

Especially when I saw the leopard print living room chairs.

My favorite view in town was directly behind the Spasso-Ephimovsky monastery, overlooking the Pokrovsky Convent.

Lazarevskaya Church

Antipievskaya Church

The Suzdal Kremlin and it's breathtaking, blue-domed Rozhdestvensky Cathedral.

It was such a peaceful retreat and the weather in Suzdal was sunny and warm enough that I even removed one of my two coats! A miracle in the city of steeples!!! Fantastically fresh food, good company and the express train from Vladimir back to Moscow (1 hr. 45 min.) made it all the better!

Жди меня...Wait for Me (Simonov)

Tomorrow, May 9th, is Victory Day in Russia, commemorating the Red Army's victory over Nazi Germany. It's like Memorial Day in the States times 50. The majority of the country will have Thursday and Friday off work and the list of events is unreal. Not to be left behind, we at the Bolshoi are doing our fair share to contribute and our Young Artist Programme will be doing a concert of popular songs from the war.

We had a private performance of this concert today with several army officials present and it was my first time hearing the project. (Not surprisingly I was not picked to oversee the concert of Russian war tunes). It was stunning and yet another insight to the beautiful Russian culture.

As I listened to the war songs and watched the video display, I was touched. But tears came to my eyes when I saw the reactions around me. You see, while war songs often may seem like patriotic propaganda, the truly beautiful ones are far more. They don't express patriotism, but rather humanity. The emotions felt in times of suffering, sacrifice, and great loss are universal. The horror of war and the reality of its effects on individuals can be understood by all, regardless of nationality.

One of the program numbers, this beautiful tune and its text have been haunting me since hearing...LISTEN!!! You won't regret it. The poem, "Wait for me", is by poet Konstantin Simonov, and unfortunately I wasn't able to find an English translation that I liked...as it turns out it's seriously difficult to do a good rhyming translation! So, here I offer my own, rhyme-less version. Somehow less seems lost and, while it's far from professional or smooth, I hope you can see through the flaws to the beauty of these words.

Жди меня, и я вернусь.
Только очень жди,
Жди, когда наводят грусть
Желтые дожди,
Жди, когда снега метут,
Жди, когда жара,
Жди, когда других не ждут,
Позабыв вчера.
Жди, когда из дальних мест
Писем не придет,
Жди, когда уж надоест
Всем, кто вместе ждет.

Жди меня, и я вернусь,
Не желай добра
Всем, кто знает наизусть,
Что забыть пора.
Пусть поверят сын и мать
В то, что нет меня,
Пусть друзья устанут ждать,
Сядут у огня,
Выпьют горькое вино
На помин души...
Жди. И с ними заодно
Выпить не спеши.

Жди меня, и я вернусь,
Всем смертям назло.
Кто не ждал меня, тот пусть
Скажет: - Повезло.
Не понять, не ждавшим им,
Как среди огня
Ожиданием своим
Ты спасла меня.
Как я выжил, будем знать
Только мы с тобой,-
Просто ты умела ждать,
Как никто другой.

Wait for me and I'll return.
Only, really wait.
Wait when yellow rains
Bring sadness,
Wait when snow flies,
Wait through the heat,
Wait when others don't wait,
Forgetting yesterday.
Wait when from far-off places
Letters don't come.
Wait when all who are waiting together grow weary.

Wait for me, and I'll return.
Don't wish well to those who know by heart,
That it's time to forget.
Let mother and son believe
That I am gone.
Let friends grow tired of waiting,
sit by the fire,
And drink bitter wine
in the soul's remembrance.
Wait. And together with them
Don't hurry to drink.

Wait for me and I'll return,
In spite of all the deaths.
He who didn't wait for me, then let say:
"He had some luck."
They won't understand, having not waited for them,
How from amidst the fire
With your waiting
You saved me.
How I survived, we will know,
Only you and I -
You simply were able to wait
Like no other.

Happy Victory Day Celebrations to those in Russia. And to all of us...happy remembering. Here's to humanity!

Moscow Day Trips: Vladimir

While my intent this month is to focus on Moscow and all its marvels, I have to say that it's a big city. And sometimes the best part about living in a big city? The ability to leave it! Moscow is the heart of Russia---maybe not from a "warm fuzzy feelings" standpoint, but definitely when it comes to transportation. So, Monday morning I took in a Moscow sunrise at 5:45 am and headed to the train station. First stop, Vladimir!

Despite having slept only 45 minutes the night before and awoken plenty early for departure preparation, we unfortunately missed our early-morning high-speed train. Which resulted in us taking an elektrichka...the local and extremely slow train. But even elektrichkas have a plus. They're seriously inexpensive AND they're adventurous. Check out the killer time this lady across from me was having!

I wish in photographing our sleeping babushka I had managed to capture the man to her right, as he came to play a critical part in our journey. The first couple hours were spent covering all kinds of random topics in English (everyone needs a language vacation now and again!) until eventually our neighbor asked us what language we were speaking in. This struck up Russian conversation and for the next hour and a bit we were given detailed instructions on sightseeing in Vladimir and Suzdal, with history, literature and philosophy lessons scattered in the mix! Another babushka joined us along the route and chimed in as well. Train travel in Russia isn't beautiful, but moments like these make it worth the while. Engaging with some of the older Russian crowd in conversations about their land and lives was fascinating and I felt like I had found two new friends by the end of the ride.

Vladimir is a good-sized city, but all the sites we wanted to visit were concentrated in the Old Town area. We arrived around 11 and spent about 4 hours in town before heading off to our next destination, but honestly? We felt like that was sufficient! Granted we had to forego museums, concerts, and other types of events that Vladimir might have to offer, but when it comes to the sights everything is compact and easily reached on foot from the train station. Here's my list of "don't miss":

Assumption (Dormition) Cathedral

Built in 1158, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site ("White Monuments of Vladimir and Suzdal") and simply stunning. Vladimir was the center of 13th and 14th century Medieval Russia and this cathedral survived several tragedies, including the burning of the cathedral with a prince and his family locked inside, but also the crowning of all Russian princes during that time period. Unfortunately the church itself was closed on our visit, so we had to content ourselves with the exterior. Not difficult to do!

 St. Demetrius Cathedral 

Behind the cathedral you find one of my personal Vladimir favorites...a fantastic view of both the valley, Assumption Cathedral and the neighboring monastery.

You can't see it well from these pictures, but the stone walls are carved with all kinds of images. If you get a chance, it's worth seeing close up.

In case you can't tell, we experienced some rather sporadic weather during our time in Vladimir. Wind and occasionally rain contrasted with blue skies and sunshine. The overall affect? Cold. And difficult photography lighting! But beautiful enough to make up for it!

Last but not least, the Golden Gates. No, not the golden arches of Макдоналдс, which can be found even in Vladimir. But the former main entrance to the fortressed city. There's a small but interesting museum housed inside (free for students of higher education!) that's worth checking out. 

 

So, if you only have a day but want to get away, Vladimir is a great option. Especially if you make your high-speed train which cuts travel from just over 3 hours to 1 hour 45 minutes. Luckily, we had two days so our adventure continued. More to come!

Мечтание: The Tretyakov Gallery

Happy Easter, Orthodox-style! Moscow is filled with beautiful churches and today their bells were ringing off the hook. Breathtaking! I received a colored-egg as an Easter gift today and, in order to truly live up the holiday, made an egg-salad sandwich. Sometimes we get a little crazy in these parts...

Despite the month-long delay of Easter, our city has yet to hit resurrection phase. The greenery is there, but I'm sensing the buds are still another couple weeks away. With another chilly, rainy afternoon on hand, selecting a museum for today's Moscow adventure made perfect sense. And, despite having now lived in Moscow for 8 months, I had yet to explore what is considered our #1 art museum: the Tretyakov Gallery. It was time, my friends!

The Tretyakov houses a stunning collection of Russian art and shouldn't be missed if you're visiting Moscow. I am not nearly educated enough in the art history sphere, so I generally like to pick up an audio-guide to learn as I go. (Someday I will take an art history class!) My museum tolerance level, however, tends to top out at 2 hours so I've had to develop my personal viewing style. Here it is:

When entering a room, do a quick scan of all the artwork. For me there are typically around three pieces that immediately grab my attention, whether it be by size, composition, or subject matter. I'll glance at the rest of the art (especially if my audio-guide recommends doing so), but the majority of my time in the room is spent focused on the works that drew my initial attention, trying to deduce what specifically captivated my interest. 

Мечтание/Dreaming; Нефф

The wonderful thing about this system? It will never be the same. I know that the next time I visit the Tretyakov, I'll be in a different place and its likely different art will speak to me. Or maybe the same pieces will jump out, but for different reasons. It's one of the beauties of art in general...it has a universal ability to communicate in a constantly fresh way.

Крестный ход у Благовещенского собора в Московском Кремле; Бодри

Христос в пустыне/Christ in the Wilderness; Крамской

Ночь на Днепре/Night on the Dnepre; Кунджи

For me, today it was all about light and faces. These are only a few of the paintings which made an impression, and in this vast collection there is much more discovery to be done! But, to steal an art-museum game from a friend, I picked one which I would like to take home. Today's choice? Neff's Dreaming, the first of the paintings included. Something about the girl's expression, combined with the light and colors, made me feel like I had left Moscow behind and entered a world of wonder. In dreaming their is hope, there is future, and there is direction. Her life is not determined by location or situation, but only the limits of her mind and fantasy. Reality is fleeting and rightfully so. She drew me into her dream and if the Tretyakov Gallery needed a temporary/permanent relocation for her portrait, I think it would contribute nicely to my cabin walls.

My one other visit to the Tretyakov was a few months ago, but we were a bit preoccupied with another art form.

I'm planning on at least one more visit before the end of the month and am convinced that I'll still only be brushing the surface of all this place has to offer! A Moscow must-see.